Baris, the Warrior Dance- Finding my Strength

Baris Dancer. Baris Dance is a Balinese warrior dance. It is traditionally danced by young boys and the three little boys that I am living each can dance a mean Baris, particularly Bayu, the six-old youngest. The dance is strong, fast and fierce. I love it even though it absolutely kills me in the heat. In the dance, I get to express a strength and a passion that I didn't know I had until I came to Bali. Perhaps its the hot weather or the spicy chili sauce, but in Bali I have felt the heat of a whole new inner flame inspired by this dance that I have come to love so much. I love the sharp eyes, the moving necks, the flying fingers, the groundingof the deep piles, the playfulness of the swaying heads and the characters in each face. I truly feel like I have found a dance that I have been looking for a long time or perhaps a dance that I danced before. Either way, I am grateful. This trip to Bali has proven to me the importance of following our heart's passions and also the incredible strength that this entails. Like the Baris warrior, sometimes we must flight for what we love. Many of you might know the craziness of my life before coming to Bali, leaving Portland, yoga students, yoga job etc... All really hard to let go of but what was harder was the step before, having the strength to listen to my little inner voice as it guides me. Still, here in Bali, I am continually calling upon the Baris' warrior strength to listen, to discern and to to trust. I have found such freedom in this strength to listen to my heart, in dancing this strength in Baris and living my passions in Bali. I find it in the little things, like in feeding myself well or in appreciating my body's uniqueness when I dance, having patience with myself and allowing myself the opportunity to be a beginner. When my actions reflect my inner compass, (and they don't always, it's a learner curve for sure,) I feel such a satisfaction. I feel integrity. Baris Dancer

where i write you

My computer.

Where I write. A tiny internet cafe with ten cubicles. I sit on a little cushion, while a mix of Balinese pop and Celine Deon play on the radio. It is fun. Sometimes very hot, but mostly fun. And very close to Sukawati Market where I can grab some fried bananas afterwards... :)




one of ten little computer cubicals..

Ibu Dinu, I love you

Ibu Dinu, my food savior!

I visit Ibu Dinu's warong at least two times a day. First for fresh papaya or avocado juice and later for gado gado. Ibu's gado gado is the best in Batuan, with rice and tempeh and always extra samblah (the spicy chile sauce) that I love!!

So grateful for my local haunts....



The Indomart- great for everything from fruit to lemon water to aspirin.

Gambuh Ceremony

Temple overlooking Mount Agung

This full moon Saturday, March 19th, was a special holy day here in Bali. To celebrate, the group performed Gambuh at the mother temple that overlooks Mount Agung.

Gambuh might be my favorite dance of Bali. It is an ancient sacred dance with flute music and singing. It is incredibly difficult in its subtleties.

The group performed and then we ate and prayed. The day itself was hectic. We had to leave at 6am to drive to temple. The weather was bizarre. Nineties in the morning followed by heavy rain and then deep heat. Needless to say, many of us, myself included, got sick. But the Gambuh was well worth it!

Below Ibu Ketut (Jimat's fourth daughter) and Ibu Sekar, my Gambuh teacher, get ready for performance.

Gado Gado

Gado Gado or fried vegeatbles with peanut sauce is by far my favorite dish here. I can grab it at almost any warong (of course, I have my favorite). Warongs, or a little shack with hot food, tea nad tons of Balinese snacks cover all the streets in Bali. It's the local place to go, eat and socialize.

Best to add Samblah-- the hot chili sauce that is to die for! (if you like spicy) to everything!!!

Makan! Makan! Makan!

Eat! Eat! Eat!

Noh and Balinese Dance collaboration

Photo of rehearsal.

This past week I had the honor and pleasure of being able to watch the rehearsals and final performance of a dance collaboration between Balinese master dancer Jimat, Balinese master opera singer and a Noh master from Japan!

Of course, these experience masters rehearsed for a mere two days to make this simple and moving piece. I am always impressed by how experienced dancers are not afraid to use simplicity in their work. Both moved with a sense of ease, poise and clarity.

The plot was none other than the theme of Balance which seems pretty consistent here in Bali!

getting dressed for temple dancing!

Los Maria getting her hair done. This is step one.

To celebrate the New Year, the village of Batuan hosts its final rajan dance ceremony (which had been going on every night at 8.00pm in the temple). My dancers, including me, have gone to dance together for an hour of son, this very sweet, slow and soft dance. The dance happens in the Temple from October to March to prepare for the New Year. For the last dance, the women can wear full costumes! So Los Maria had Sri (daughter of of dancer teacher Sekar) dress her up!

I stayed around for most of the two hours it took to prepare!!!
Dancing was great. Later this week, a man from the village asked if I would sign the photo that he took of me dancing at the temple! He was shocked to see, "a white woman dance Balinese beautiful." I think that was a compliment!

Sri wrapping Wayan up like a present to dance...!

Nyepi

The entryway to my room.

The Balinese begin their New Year's Day with Nyepi. A truly Balinese day. This day is spent in complete silence, alone and in your room. You are asked to create no fire- meaning no cooking and electricity, and no inward fire such as angry or strong emotions. It is a day for inward reflection and rest.

Of course, pratical as ever, the Balinese make exceptions for eating for children or lights for babies, but if possible, you are asked to be still and quiet. And Putu and her family, certaintly was. Her three little boys (ages 6-11) were silent as ever! And all the city was too. No stores are open, no cars or motorbikes on the street and no street lights!

I spent the day in my room- sleeping, meditating, doing light yoga, drinking water and juice, napping, reading and journaling. It was a blissful day! At night, I have never experienced such darkness! No electricity whatsoever. Even though, I basically laid around all day, I slept so well!

And when I could speak today, I really felt ready for a new year. Everyone seems refreshed and happy. It's truly great. I love Nyepi.


My bed.

More on Agogo

Picture of men carrying Arjuna as they sing and dance!

So the afternoon of Agogo was spent first at the temple praying (will describe prayer soon!) And then eating and then Agogo parade essentially. Basically at around eight, everyone arrives at their local temple (of course wearing traditional clothes which one must wear at any ceremony). At the temple, you get a good seat and hope your butt doesn't go numb from sitting on concrete for maybe three hours! Because then the village parades its Agogos! These are huge statues of different demons and gods made mostly out of Styrofoam with a bamboo base from which 10-15 men carry this Balinese style float.
So first, all Agogos are presented of course with live music (as more men carry along drums). Batuan had eight total. All unique. Some grutesque, others sexual, some funny and some quite heroic. After all have been initially displayed, each one is redisplayed with a little show. Each show is different. All have live music, some with full choral songs and chants, others with full length dance numbers, others with a story etc..! It is a real show! So much time is clearly spent preparing these little skits for the village and alas, this is how the Balinese celebrate their New Year's eve!
After all have been displayed, we parade back to our house, following which ever Agogo's are headed that way!


Los Maria and I watching Agogo!!

Jimat ceremony on Agogo

Jimat performing the Old Man Topeng at Temple Ceremony. Why the Old Man has a rock star wig, I do not know....??

Jimat took Los Maria, (woman from Columbia here fro six months) I (Japanese woman here for a year) and myself to watch him perform for a temple ceremony early morning on Agogo. Agogo is the day before the Balinese New Year for the demons... It is a time to honor them and ask them not to die or disapear (as this would upset them and the balance of life) . Rather, it is a time to ask the demons to return to their place and restore balance for new year.

Jimat and three other dancers performed a dance with various singing parts, it was quite lovely....



Car ride with Los Maria and I! On way to temple at 7.00 am, we are excited!